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Tips & Tutorials

SnapFrames Guide

Everything you need to design, print, and assemble your custom frames.

A few frames generated in SnapFrames, each with its own size, profile, and face design.

Use the walkthrough for an interactive tour.

Start Walkthrough

Generator Workflow

The core workflow in one pass: size, shape, edge profile, and a wood grain face.
1

Enter Your Build Plate Size

Select your 3D printer's build plate size. Generated frame components will be automatically sized to fit your build plate, with parts split as needed for larger frames.

Smart Orientation is enabled by default. It automatically rotates pieces 45° diagonally when doing so reduces the number of seams in your frame. If diagonal orientation doesn't reduce piece count, it stays orthogonal for better bed packing.

2

Set the Frame Interior Dimensions

Enter the exact interior opening you want for your artwork or photo. The frame will be generated to these interior dimensions. Generate a frame about 0.2mm larger than your artwork for an easy fit.

3

Choose Your Frame Shape

Pick the overall shape of your frame:

  • Rectangle — the standard four-sided frame.
  • Hexagon — a six-sided frame with full snap-fit assembly support: six edges, each with its own corner and connector pieces.
  • Circle, Oval, and Arch — rounded shapes for a softer, gallery-style look.

Rectangle and hexagon frames can be generated at any size as snap-together kits, split into build-plate-sized pieces. The rounded shapes (circle, oval, and arch) generate as one-piece frames, sized as large as will fit on your printer in a single print.

Change dimensions and shapes freely; the frame regenerates to fit.
4

Choose Your Edge Profile

Edge Type is organized into tabs — Picture, 3D Art, Floater, and Litho Light Box. Each tab offers built-in Standard, Thin, and Thick dimension presets (plus any customs you’ve saved), sliders to fine-tune the selected cross-section, and a live Edge preview that rebuilds as you adjust.

The artwork sandwich (plexi + art + backer, 4.5mm) pressed against the lip by the prongsThe real coiled prong, relaxed: seated in its pocket, arm reaching out to pinch the stack against the lipProngArtworkFace
Picture Frame

Best for photos, glass, HueForge prints, and thin art. It loads from the back and printed prongs hold it snug.

Gluing flangeFace
3D Art Frame

Best for raised prints, cityscapes, and canvases that need clearance above the face. The art rests on a support ledge and grips a glue flange.

RevealGluing flangeFace
Floater Frame

Best for canvas wraps and thicker pieces. A recessed ledge leaves a clean reveal around the art for that floating gallery look.

Lithophane 2.5mmDiffuser 1mmThe real coiled prong, relaxed: seated in its pocket, arm reaching out to pinch the stack against the lipLithophaneDiffuserThe LED backer plate (1.8mm) pressed forward against the rear recess by the second prongBacker plateThe rear coiled prong, relaxed: seated in the deeper recess, pressing the backer plate forwardProngsLED strip mounted on the backer plate, shining forward through the litho paneFace
Litho Light BoxBeta

Best for backlit lithophanes. The pane clips behind the front lip and a lit backer plate sits further back, so the gap between them spreads the light.

Adjusting an edge profile with live sliders
Every profile is adjustable

Drag Face, Height, Depth, and art thickness with live sliders to customize.

Trying edge profiles and fine-tuning the cross-section with the live Profile sliders.

Picture Frame

Best for photos, glass, HueForge prints, and thin art. It loads from the back and printed prongs hold it snug. Set your piece’s thickness with the blue Art slider — the prongs flex to grip a ~3mm range around it.

  • Artwork secured from back with removable 3D printed prongs
  • Optional glass/plexiglass sheet for protection
Clear acrylic sheets

3D Art Frame

Best for raised prints, cityscapes, and canvases that need clearance above the face. The art rests on a support ledge and grips a glue flange.

  • Artwork glued to the ridged grip flange
  • Ideal for Micropolitan 3D map art
  • No lip over the artwork
  • Adjustable width, height, drop, and flange sliders

Floater Frame

Best for canvas wraps and thicker pieces. A recessed ledge leaves a clean reveal around the art for that floating gallery look.

  • Recessed ledge for canvas and thick pieces
  • Art appears to float within the frame
  • Tall frame walls for a gallery look
  • Adjustable width, height, reveal, and flange sliders

Litho Light Box

Beta

Best for backlit lithophanes. The pane clips behind the front lip and a lit backer plate sits further back, so the gap between them spreads the light.

  • Backer plate prints with a channel for an LED strip
  • Optional diffuser sheet blends the LEDs into one soft glow
  • Keep at least 15mm between pane and backer for even light
Full lithophane guide below

Custom Edge Profiles

Want full control? Every profile is adjustable with the panel’s sliders, or pop out the full editor to draw the cross-section point by point, sculpt an edge relief, and tune the art-stack dimensions. Apply uses your changes right away; Save keeps them as a named preset you can jump back to anytime.

The parametric edge-profile editor: a live cross-section with dimension handles, the layered art stack, and the prong grip range
5

Select or Design Your Face Design

Choose from wood grains and preset patterns, generate your own material or pattern, or design one from scratch in the Layer Composer. Tap any example below to expand it.

Smooth & Wood Grains

Choose Smooth for a clean face, or select a wood grain pattern. When a wood grain is chosen, Advanced Wood Options can be configured to customize the grain density, structure, and knot count for that preset wood species.

Real frames printed by the community:

Preset Designs

Start from one of the built-in pattern presets, spanning categories like Geometric, Flowers, Animals, Plants, and more. Any preset can be edited and saved as a new customized pattern by clicking the pencil icon on it.

A few of the built-in presets:

Materials

Pick from a library of realistic materials — marble, hammered metals, agate, stone, and more. Each one carries both real color and a height map, so the face actually prints with surface relief instead of a flat image. You can also describe a surface (like "weathered walnut" or "hammered brass") to generate your own material. Each generated material costs 3 credits and is saved to your account for reuse.

A few materials from the library:

Custom & Community Patterns

Under Patterns you can generate your own tileable pattern from a short prompt (like "tiny blue florals on cream"). Check the 2x2 preview to confirm the repeat stays seamless before applying it — each generated pattern costs 1 credit. You can also browse and reuse patterns shared by the community, like the ones below.

Patterns designed and shared by other users:

Generating a custom seamless pattern and texture, then applying it to the frame face.

Edge Relief

Draw a curve and SnapFrames turns it into raised or recessed relief shaped across the face — handy for beveled, stepped, or moulded edges. It can be used on its own or stacked with a face design in the Layer Composer.

The Layer Composer

The Layer Composer is where you build a custom face by stacking layers — a pattern or texture, a photo or upload, and an edge-relief shape — into a single design that wraps the frame. Think of it like a small image editor that outputs printable 3D relief.

Stacking layers and edge relief in the Layer Composer to build a custom face.

The core idea: images are heightmaps

Every layer is read as a heightmap — light (white) areas rise and dark (black) areas sink. That is how a flat image becomes physical relief on the printed face. High-contrast, seamless artwork gives the cleanest result.

What you can do in it:

  • Stack layers — combine a pattern/material, an uploaded image, and an edge-relief layer in one face.
  • Set relief depth per layer — control how far the texture rises or recesses on the printed surface.
  • Choose where the face samples from — pick which layer drives the geometry so the relief reads the way you want.
  • Opacity and ordering — blend layers and reorder them to fine-tune how they combine.
  • Upload your own image or pull in a seamless pattern or Material as a layer.
  • Directional patterns can be rotated per edge so the design stays consistent all the way around.

How to use it: add a base pattern or material, layer an image or edge relief on top, set each layer's depth, then choose which layer the face samples from and preview the result. Color is handled separately over in Colorize — the Layer Composer is about shape and relief, Colorize is about which filaments print where.

Credits & My Generations

Generating materials and patterns spends credits from a single wallet — a material is 3 credits, a pattern is 1. Every account starts with 30 credits, Premium and Commercial members get more, and active monthly subscribers receive 40 extra each month. Credits never expire, and you can earn more by sharing your Makes to the community gallery. Everything you generate is saved to your account: open My Generations to browse your full history and reuse anything on a new frame without spending credits again.

My Designs & Community Designs

Save your custom patterns to My Designs for reuse later. When signed in, designs sync to your account and can be accessed from any device. Browse the Community Designs gallery to find and use patterns shared by other users, or share your own creations with the community.

6

Configure Part Labels

Add subtle protruding text to the back of each frame piece for easy identification during assembly. Labels are raised from the surface and appear on the back face (opposite the textured/veneered side).

Standard Labels

The default option includes part numbers, frame dimensions, and SnapFrames branding on each piece.

Part numbering: Each piece is labeled with its edge (LEFT, TOP, RIGHT, BOT) and a sequential number. Numbering starts at #1 on the LEFT edge (bottom piece) and continues clockwise around the frame.

Frame piece numbering diagram showing clockwise order: LEFT 1-2, TOP 3-4, RIGHT 5-6, BOT 7-8

Custom Labels

Customize what appears on your labels. Toggle part numbers and dimensions on or off, add your own custom text (like your brand name or a message), and upload a logo image.

Logo editor: Click the pencil icon to open the logo editor where you can crop your image (free or square), adjust brightness and contrast, and toggle invert. The "Invert" option is enabled by default, which works best for dark logos on light backgrounds. The preview shows the heightmap where brighter areas become more raised on the printed frame.

Text Size and Height

Adjust the Size slider to scale text and logos relative to the frame face (75%-200%), and the Height slider to control how much the text protrudes from the surface (0.05-0.5mm).

Tip: After generating, check the 3D Preview to confirm your labels display correctly. Smaller frames may need reduced text size to fit all the content.

7

Generate & Preview

Generate your frame and inspect it in the 3D Frame Preview before downloading. Use the Sample button to generate a small test piece to check texture and color.

Output tabs

Switch between Edge Pieces, Full Frame, Sample Corner, Backer, and Mat to inspect each part that was generated.

Preview controls

Rotate, zoom, and pan to inspect the model. Use Parts to hide or show individual pieces, Measure for a quick size check, X-Ray and Shaded when texture makes details hard to read, and toggle the build Plate on or off.

Generate in Draft first, then Standard or Fine

Keep Texture Quality on Draft for your first generations — it is fast and lets you dial in size, layout, and face design without long waits. Once it looks right in the preview, regenerate at Standard or Fine for the final files. Reach for Fine when the face design is intricate or has small detail; let the 3D preview be your guide — if the texture already reads cleanly, Standard is plenty.

8

Add Accessories

Before downloading, expand the Accessories section to optionally include additional components.

Backer Plate

A solid backing piece that snaps onto the frame. Choose with or without an integrated kickstand for tabletop display. The kickstand is automatically sized for stable support.

Mat / Passepartout

Add a decorative border around your artwork. Customize the opening size to create wider or narrower margins. Print it or use it as a template for cutting traditional mat board.

Embossed Note

Add a personalized message that gets printed on the backer plate. The text can be visualized in the 3D preview and adjusted for font size and protrusion depth.

9

Download Your Files

The main download is a print-ready project (.3mf) — one file per kit (Snap Kit, One-Piece, or Sample Corner) with every part already arranged on build plates and colors assigned. Open it in your slicer and print. Pick the Bambu Studio lane to embed your printer, process, and filaments so the project opens ready to slice, or Universal to embed no printer settings so OrcaSlicer, Creality Print, and others open it with your own setup untouched.

Prefer individual files? Tick the parts you want for a ZIP of frame pieces, clips, prongs, accessories, and a settings file for re-importing later. If your design includes color, pick the format with the 3MF | OBJ toggle — 3MF embeds per-face colors for Bambu Studio; OBJ carries them into OrcaSlicer with your printer settings kept.

10

Slice & Print

With a print-ready project, this step is short: open the .3mf in your slicer, load the matching filaments, slice, and print — the plates are already packed and every part is in the correct orientation.

If you downloaded individual part files instead, unzip the folder and import them into your slicer:

  • When prompted to load files as a single object, click No
  • Right-click on the build plate and click Arrange to auto-arrange parts
  • Parts are already in the correct orientation (faces print vertically for max detail)

Lithophane Frames

Beta

A lithophane frame is a small backlit light box. The lithophane sits at the front behind the lip, a lit backer plate sits further back, and the gap between them turns a strip of individual LEDs into one even glow. It takes the same edge reliefs and face designs as every other frame type. Please note this is a new frame type, and we are eager for any feedback as you try it out for yourself, so we can continue to refine the design.

A finished lithophane frame lit from behind, with an inset showing the LED strip and backer plate behind the pane

The front of the profile works like a picture frame; the lithophane loads from the back and a printed prong clips in behind it, holding it against the front lip. Lithophanes use a new, compact-style prong as the default choice to save depth in the full assembly.

A second, deeper ledge carries the backer plate with a second set of prongs. The backer plate prints with a channel to route the LED strip through.

The parts of a lithophane frame laid out: channelled backer plate, LED strip, frame with prongs, and the lithophane pane

Add the optional diffuser, a thin translucent sheet that sits behind the lithophane, to help the individual LEDs blend into one soft wash of backlight.

Hands pressing an LED strip into the routed channel of the printed backer plateThe backer plate with the LED strip fully routed back and forth through its channels

The edge profile and space between the lithophane and backer plate can be edited in the Edge Profile editor. We recommend at least a 15mm space to allow the light to distribute evenly.

Making the lithophane

SnapFrames makes the frame; you bring the lithophane. These are the tools and parts we use.

Colorize

After you generate a frame, the Colorize panel opens. This is where you add real print colors to the 3MF file — filaments, face pattern colors, face text colors, and structural part colors. Preview colors are just for the screen; Colorize is what actually carries into a multi-color print.

Adding face text, then assigning real print colors in Colorize.

Filaments

Add the colors you actually own, then assign them to pattern slots, text, or parts. This keeps the design close to what you can really print.

Face Pattern

Choose how many colors to use. SnapFrames maps the best-matching colors from the design into that number of printable slots. Fewer colors are simpler to print; more colors preserve more of the original texture.

Bias Sliders

Bias changes how much of the texture each printable color claims. Use it when the automatic split is close but you want one color to show up a little more or a little less.

Painting

Painting is for manual cleanup or creative edits. Pick a tool, choose a filament slot, then paint or fill faces directly in the 3D preview.

Part Colors

Assign colors to the structure, clips, prongs, backer plate, kickstand, and mat. These choices are included in the colored export — pick 3MF or OBJ in the Download menu.

Printing in Color (Bambu & Orca)

The easiest path: download the print-ready project (.3mf) — it opens with the plates packed and every color already assigned to a filament slot, in Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer alike. The rest of this section is for when you download individual part files instead: your colors travel inside those files too — pick the format with the 3MF | OBJ toggle in the Download menu (3MF is the default). Each slicer has a best-fit format:

A colorized design travels inside the 3MF and lands in the slicer ready for multi-color printing.
Bambu Studio: use the 3MF (automatic)

Import the 3MF. Bambu reads your exact palette and assigns the colors to filament slots for you. If a “Standard 3MF Color Parsing” prompt appears, accept it. Load the matching filaments and print.

OrcaSlicer: use the OBJ (colors come in automatically)

Use File > Import on the OBJ. Orca shows an “OBJ file import color” dialog seeded with your design colors. Set the number of colors to match your design and click OK, and the regions arrive already colored, with your own printer kept. (Use Import, not Open Project.)

Prefer the 3MF in OrcaSlicer? (one extra step)

You can import the 3MF in Orca too. The color regions come in on separate filament slots in palette order (first region is filament 1, second is filament 2, and so on); set those filament colors to match your design. The exact colors are listed on the download screen so you can copy them in.

Why two formats? A 3MF carries your exact palette so Bambu shows it automatically, but Orca can only auto-apply colors from an OBJ (importing a colored 3MF as a project would replace your printer, so we never do that). So 3MF is best for Bambu, OBJ is best for Orca — pick whichever matches your slicer in the Download menu.

Materials

Mix materials for the best of both

For the most authentic result, print the visible edges in wood PLA for a real wood look, and print the clips, prongs, and other snap parts in basic PLA. Basic PLA holds tighter, more reliable tolerances than wood-filled filament, so the corners snap together cleanly and make a stronger, more durable connection. Wood PLA is a great choice for the frame edges and any other wood-like faces — just keep the clips and prongs in basic PLA.

A wood-grain frame printed in wood PLA with basic PLA snap clips — basic PLA for clips (strong snap connection), wood PLA for edges (real wood material), and print edges vertically for max detail

Recommended

PLA & Matte PLA

Best overall choice for a premium, non-glossy finish. Darker colors help to hide the seams

Silk PLA (Gold / Bronze)

Great for accent strips or decorative features

PETG

For extra strength and durability

Wood PLA

Real wood-fill grain for the edges and other wood-like faces. Keep the clips and prongs in basic PLA for the snap-fit.

Get the best fit

Basic PLA for clips & prongs

Wood PLA looks great on the edges, but wood-filled filament varies more in dimensional tolerance. Keep the clips, prongs, and other snap parts in basic PLA for the tightest, most durable corner connection.

Print a Sample Corner first to confirm the snap-fit, and use fresh or thoroughly dried filament for the most accurate results.

Design Tricks & Advanced Tips

Multi-Color Frames (Even Without a Multi-Color Printer)

Assign a different color at a specific layer height for accent stripes or layered face details.

Multi-color slicer interface showing layer height color assignmentGold accent frame example

Single-color printers: Manual filament swaps at designated layers

Multi-color printers: Automatic swaps with minimal waste, or download the 3MF with embedded colors for full-color patterns

One-Piece Frame

Check One-Piece Frame in the Generate section to generate a single unified STL of the entire frame printed flat. The Full Frame tab in the 3D Preview shows the assembled result, and a dedicated download button exports the file.

How It Works

Check One-Piece Frame in the Generate section to export a single unified STL with all four edges joined at mitered corners — no snap connectors or clips needed. Picture frames still carve real prong sockets, and the hook prongs are included in your download. The frame prints flat (face-up), so part labels are omitted. You can generate this alongside Snap-Together and/or Sample Corner.

Best For

Seamless frames with no snap-together joints. Great for multi-color prints since the textured face prints horizontally (facing up), allowing filament swaps at specific layer heights for a two-tone texture effect. Also ideal for quick small frames that need no assembly or clips. Only available for frame sizes that fit on your build plate as a single piece.

Trade-offs

Only available when the assembled frame fits on your build plate. Fine relief details may be less sharp compared to vertical printing (limited by nozzle width vs. layer height resolution). Depending on the face design, supports may be needed for overhangs when printing flat.

Large Frame Tips

  • Test small before printing large — use Sample mode to verify texture and color
  • For large frames with many edge pieces, consider reinforcing joints with glue
  • Mount the frame around chipboard or rigid backing material for added stability
  • Hang from the backing rather than the frame parts for very large frames

Ready to Create?

Start generating your custom 3D-printable frame now.